BI-LED: MORIMOTO M LED STAGE III

BI-LED: MORIMOTO M LED STAGE IIIPurists. Will start their critique before they get their hands on it. "But no!" they say. LED based projectors lack width! LED projectors have weak distance! BUT. Truth be told, it's hard not to like the MLED. The performance is on par. The simplicity is sublime. The ease of installation is excellent. The instant on is awesome. Output. We'll just start with the hotspot. The Morimoto M LED is on par with the Mini D2S 4. 0 and a XB 45K Bulb XB55

Purists.

Will start their critique before they get their hands on it. "But no!" they say. LED based projectors lack width! LED projectors have weak distance! BUT....Truth be told, it's hard not to like the MLED. The performance is on par. The simplicity is sublime. The ease of installation is excellent. The instant on is awesome.

Output.

We'll just start with the hotspot. The Morimoto M LED is on par with the Mini D2S 4.0 and a XB 45K Bulb / XB55 ballast, and about 20% brighter than its closest LED-based competitor: the CNLight i-lens. The Kuria optic clear lens and curved cutoff shield produce a beam pattern that's plenty wide, with an ECE-sloped cutoff that's super sharp, colorful. Rather than off-the-shelf LED's like early LED projectors in the aftermarket, the MLED uses a specially developed CSP chipset from Seoul SemiConductor.

Physically.

These bi-LED projectors have a lot going for them too. The threaded mounting shaft can be removed from the bi-LED projectors to free up almost an inch of depth for those who don't need/want it. The integrated mag-lev fan is sunk into the heat sink, keeping space to a minimum without sacrificing the ability to stay cool. The wiring is clean, out of the way, and can be disconnected with ease. The precision and existence of mostly die-cast (rather than stamped) parts in the cutoff shield mechanism makes for a slop-free setup and conveys quality over cost savings.

Simplicity.

Forget about separate bulbs. Forget about big ballasts, or where to mount them. Forget about complex relay harnesses, and where to run them. Here, you've got the bi-LED projectors and a small external LED driver to regulate power and control it's function. If you're a clutter-phobe, or simply tight on space working on something like a motorcycle: the Morimoto M LED is the way to go.

Easy to Install.

On a H4-based fog light reflector for example...Remove the fog light lens, insert the threaded mounting shaft through the pre-existing hole in the back of the reflector, add the alignment plate, tighten the lock ring, and re-seal the fog lights. For other applications, minimal cutting will probably be involved but you'll find the results well worth it!

Worth It?

If you want the latest and greatest, Yes. It is. Want to produce about the same amount of light output for your money? The Morimoto Mini D2S 4.0 is probably better for you - only because it's less expensive. But consider this: Yeah, the Morimoto M-LED projectors are expensive, but unlike a HID-based retrofit, you won't need bulbs, ballasts, in many cases a wire harness. You just need some shrouds, and that's about it! The rest is here.

Housing Sealant.

Protection is priceless! When you're putting together a set of high-end fog lights, the last thing you want is moisture in 'em the first time it rains outside. RetroRubber is the most effective way to make sure the original seal is fully restored.